Global Studies: Bolivia

Trip Update: May 14, 2024

Phew! Our day 6 of the trek was one for the books! As with most days we were planning to hike over a 16,000 ft pass and then camp in the next valley. However, on day 6 we traversed two passes, gaining quite a bit of altitude, dropping into the next valley, taking a quick stop at the glacier fed river. Then up the next pass. Not going to lie, this next pass looked pretty daunting. But with our cooks Sinovio and Carmen scaling the hills ahead of us, we forged on. The pass was a wild juxtaposition of steep peaks covered in snow before us, and a red, gray, black shale mix under our feet that spread over the massive pass we were climbing, making it look like we were walking on Mars. Despite tired legs and lots of deep breathing, we made it to the top of the second pass late in the afternoon with only a muddy shale descent to a glacial lake below. The students really impressed us with their fortitude and perseverance despite the difficulty. Upon arriving to the lake we discovered that our donkey crew hadn’t arrived with all our stuff. In true expedition fashion, our fearless guides quickly made a new plan to descend further into valley below where one of our donkey guides lived so we could find food and shelter. Yet again, the students impressed us with their determination, their willingness to embrace the adventure, and their surefootedness as we hiked a few hours in the dark down to the valley below. There, we made the best of a funny night’s sleep in a half finished brick shelter at the home of our donkey guide. They were so kind to house us, make us tea, and share food together. It was a beautiful display of how folks take care of each other in the rural highlands. After an interesting night’s sleep, Sinovio and Carmen whipped up some cheesy empanadas and we enjoyed a slow morning playing bananagrams and cribbage. We then changed tack for the remainder of the trek, moving further along the route to the more accessible portion in order to have vehicle access. Unfortunately, Gilbo got quite ill in the night and altitude sickness kicked in, and she left for La Paz to recover. She is feeling much much better now! But the rest of us were able to continue thanks to our hardy Patagonia Frontiers guides. We base-camped for days 7 and 8 at a lake and went on a nice, but steep, day hike on day 8. We got a stunning view of the glaciers opposite our camp and got a lesson on glaciology from Kati. The rest of the afternoon was spent napping and playing music trivia on the speaker Juan unearthed for us. Needless to say, we have some competitive students, and some real music buffs. Though in my opinion they need some work on the category I call “oldies but goodies”. On day 9 we again traversed two passes to the next lake, however this hike wasn’t nearly as intense as day 6. This new lake was our final campsite and was truly our favorite. It looked out over a crystal clear turquoise lake with huge peaks nestled behind, adorned with hanging glaciers and shrouded summits. The students enjoyed a bit of a rest day on day 10, bopping around the lake, playing a great many rounds of games in our dining tent, and we were even surprised by a late afternoon pizza! Emma and I went with our guides Don Selso and Heather up to the top of the waterfall opposite to see the higher lake and the glaciers up close. Truly one of the most stunning scenes we’d ever seen. While this has been a challenging trek for many reasons, the students have learned multitudes about themselves, how much they are capable of, and the power of an enduring and open spirit. Hopefully they can hang on to these lessons and share them with you all amidst the harrowing tales that I’m sure you will be regaled with. This has been a burly trek and we are sincerely proud of each one for completing it and still having the levity and lightness to play games for 6 hours and in Sebbie’s case, run around the campsite screaming “I skunked Anna,” when he finally handedly beat Anna at cribbage, a rarity for any of us. As we reflected on the past 10 days, we talked a lot about a quote from the book the Prophet by Khalil Gibran, posted below. The students reflected on their deeper self knowledge afforded by this trip. Sebbie learned that he can surpass his limits and that despite not feeling well, things can be pretty awesome if you let them. Anna learned resourcefulness in the outdoors, that she is capable, and the value of teamwork and support. Riley learned she could push herself out of her comfort zone in many ways and also not to be afraid to practice Spanish. Elianna learned to be ok with being uncomfortable, and increased self awareness. Emma learned the power of a positive attitude and if you are going to do it anyway, you may as well do it happy. Julian Bamberger learned to be more flexible and go with the flow even when he doesn’t know all of the details, and that he can do hard things. Sawyer learned that being kind and making a good first impression can lead to positive relationships, like with our guides and cook crew, and that flexibility is important. Rex learned that he can still do hard things even when he isn’t feeling well. Oliver has rediscovered the joy of being outside with friends and has gained new skills for living out of doors. Leo learned you can do anything you put your mind to and the importance of resiliency. Isaak learned he can do things he didn’t think were possible. Julian Wright learned he can backpack, honestly the craziest first backpacking trip ever, and that he can accomplish more than he expected. Camden learned he can dig deep and rally, and unsurprisingly for him, that music can cure anything. 

Again we are so proud of this group and are really grateful to see and hear them take away these lessons and a deeper sense of self and their capabilities. It is so important to do hard things, realize you can do them, and then have that experience to draw upon when the next hard thing presents itself. They are building confidence and resilience in ways that only the wilderness can teach. 

This morning, we celebrated our local guide, Don Selso’s 52nd birthday with one of the best backcountry birthday cakes I’ve seen. Basically a stack of pancakes covered in chocolate and canned strawberries. We sang Feliz Cumpleanos, Don Selso cried and said this was his first time celebrating on a trip with a group, that he was so proud of us and that he felt like we were all his children. Such a sweet way to wrap up our trek and appreciate such a stunning fellow. We then packed up and headed back to La Paz for some well deserved showers and rest. A few more days to go in this wild country! We are so fortunate! 

The Prophet – Kahlil Gibran “On Self-knowledge: And a man said, speak to us of self-knowledge. And he answered, saying: Your hearts know in silence the secrets of the days and the nights. But your ears thirst for the sound of your heart’s knowledge. You would know in words that which you have always known in thought. And it is well you should. The hidden well-spring of your soul must needs rise and run murmuring to the sea; And the treasure of your infinite depths would be revealed to your eyes. But let there be no scales to weigh your unknown treasure; and seek not the depth of your knowledge with staff and sounding line. For self is a sea boundless and measureless. Say not, ‘I have found the truth,’ but rather, ‘I have found a truth.’ Say not, ‘I have found the path of the soul.’ Say rather, ‘I have met the soul walking upon my path.’ For the soul walks upon all paths. The soul walks not upon a line, neither does it grow like a reed. The soul unfolds itself, like a lotus of countless petals.”

Student Shoutouts!

Sebbie: Dear family, holy cow that trek was hard! I miss y’all. Happy American Mother’s Day!! Can we get Starbucks and Subway when I get home! I hope y’all are well. See you soon! 

 

Sawyer: Love you guys, miss you also it’s Mother’s Day right now so happy Mother’s Day and I’m excited to see you guys.

 

Elianna: Dear family, this trip has been incredible! It has gone by so quick and I almost wish we didn’t have to leave. I hope all is well at home and I can’t wait to see you all soon and then get ready for Gabe’s big day! Say Hi to Benji for me. I also can’t wait for some good American food when I get back. Love you all and Happy Mother’s Day! 

 

Anna: Hi Mom and Dad! I miss you guys can’t wait to see you soon! Happy Mother’s Day

 

Riley M: Hi Parents, I love yall and miss ya. Happy Mother’s Day!

 

Camden: Shoutout the cat and the red panda plushie. Don’t be worried about my glasses I can see. I do look a bit weird without them though, I like me with glasses a lot better! Anyway shoutout the red panda plush for real.

 

Rex: Hello guys, miss you tons and I’m excited to be home in just a few days. Hope Toof and Golidie are doing well too! Also quick heads up, I think I want to start climbing when I get back. Love you!

 

Julian B: Hey mom, dad, and friends. Miss you all very much. Happy Mother’s Day Mom! Love to all. 

 

Emma: Spangs says it’s mother’s day today, so Happy Mother’s Day! I miss you all a lot. I have some presents. When I get home, can we have backdoor for dinner?  I love the dog more. See you soon!

 

Oliver: Just writing to say hi padres! Me and missy mo, mo are doing great at our PJ JP training. Can’t wait to tell you all our amazing stories. Love y’all but I love the dog more!

 

Julian Wright: hi Mom, Dad, Gretta and Charlie. This trip has been a really good experience, I’m enjoying it here. I hope you all had fun in Moab. See you all soon! Love, Julian

 

Leo: To a mother dearest, I wish you a Happy Mother’s Day and hope the dogs are doing well. I got Steve a birthday present that I am wrapping in his favorite thing, my socks. That is all. Love, Leo

 

Isaak: Love you two, excited for popcorn! Happy Mother’s Day!

Trip Update: May 6, 2024

Well here we are, over halfway through our trek! So far, we have been humbled by these giant mountains’ majesty and dynamic dance with the clouds. It is really cool to be up close to the glaciated peaks we saw earlier in the trip. Altitude has also humbled us. The students are doing great: When hiking that high, we must go slowly slowly, even Issak. It takes on a meditative cadence with the breath. Leo had regaled us with boat loads of Greek mythology, Emma is the trail game ‘contact’ queen with impossible-to-guess words, and Camden has been really intrigued with the fog, capturing it on his camcorder. Rex has made fast friends with our Patagonia Frontiers guides, and is really making an effort to get to know our local Bolivian guide Donselso. Riley’s creativity in naming the free-range alpacas we encounter is truly a gift, and it is taking every ounce of Sebbie’s self control not to feed or play with the adorable puppy who has joined our expedition. Julian Wright is proving to be a real sleeper threat at the game “farkle,” but there is nothing “sleeper” about Julian Bamberger’s “farkle” game. Sawyer really impressed our logistics team with his hustle gathering the prickly grass “Inca-style” to create more traction so our mini bus could make it out of a sticky spot after we awoke to about 5 inches of snow. Elianna is proving to be a pretty unshakable expedition member, her only weakness the pounds of gummies she’s planning to eat when we return to La Paz. Oliver is offering constant encouragement to everyone, especially in the hard moments, including Spangs and me. Last but certainly not least, Anna will likely be recruited by NOLS after high school – her trucker’s hitch is on-point and she is such a constant positive force. So there you have it. Today is a rest day which we all needed to put ourselves back together before the 2nd half. We are moving with donkey support for the next few days. We are in good, capable hands with our PF guides Juan, Kati, and Heather and, of course, Donselso. The food that’s coming out of our logistics crew’s tiny little tent is pretty incredible. Yesterday, we had a layered party cake! But we can’t say that anything has been easy. We are very much one-day-at-a-time here. The Cordillera Real is REAL and teaching us basic lessons in self care every day while also inspiring us over every new pass. Drink water. Go slowly. Take care of your feet. Put on sunscreen, even when it’s cloudy… 

Signing off, Gilbo and Spangs. Until the next one!

Trip Update: April 29, 2024

We are about 6 days into our journey in Bolivia, and one thing has become clear: Bolivia is no joke! After arriving at 4am in La Paz, Day 1 was a mandatory rest day. Everyone felt the altitude immediately so we took it easy. We did a gear check for the trek, and marveled at the impressive 360 degree view of La Paz from our hotel. 

On Day 2, we took a bus to the Altiplano to visit some Tijuanaku archeological sites and learned more about this ancient culture, the predecessors to the more well-known Inka. We were particularly impressed by the sophisticated understanding of the universe. For example, they had a reflection pool to study the cosmos without straining their necks and used it to create a calendar of 13 months and one day, the new year, which we will even get to celebrate on our trek! We learned about a sound amplifier and receiver carved and angled out of stone that blew our minds, and were fascinated by the volcanic rocks they used to observe changing magnetic fields. 

The following day, as part of our acclimatization process, we took a hike through Palca Canyon, eyeing the big snow-covered peaks towering above in the distance. After some nice exercise and great views, we used the afternoon to do some last minute preparations for the trek and prepare for our departure from La Paz. Next stop – Lake Titicaca, the highest altitude navigable lake in the world!

Our first stop along Lake Titicaca was Copacabana, a bustling tourist village on the southern shores of the lake. From there, we took a boat almost two hours to the island of Isla del Sol, a sleepy, beachy island. It was so nice to arrive to such a quiet, peaceful and beautiful place, away from the hustle and bustle of Bolivia’s capital, La Paz. After a very brisk swim in the lake, we were reminded that despite the waves lapping on the sandy beach, this was in fact a high altitude glacial melt lake, not a tropical beach! We put on our puffys and enjoyed a meal in our charming hostel and got some good rest. When we woke up, we hiked the length of Isla del Sol and were amazed by the mountain views in the distance. 

As we write this now, our packs are securely tied down to the roof of our bus and we are traveling to Sorata, a small village from where we will begin our big trek. We are all a bit excited and nervous. Altitude is of course a challenge for everyone, but what it affords us is so worth it. The glaciated peaks in the distance are an ever-present reminder of the heights to which we may ascent. We look forward to reporting back after our big trekking adventure! 

Besos,
Emily and Gilbo

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